The Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia is famous for its wineries, notably McLaren Vale, but I want to let you in on a little secret that we (Miriam & Chris from Aussie Destinations Unknown) just uncovered; it's possible to spend five days jam-packed full of adventure and great food without setting foot in a vineyard or tasting a drop of wine! We just did it, so let me show you how. Here's our itinerary. I know it looks busy—and that’s because it is—but it's possible! Start planning now for your five days on the Fleurieu Coast because as you read you will see why we think this incredibly beautiful part of South Australia deserves so much more than an overnight stay.
Day 1
Check in to your accommodation. There are plenty of accommodation options to choose from including B & Bs, hotels, villas, and so on, but as we are caravanners, we chose to stay at the Jetty Caravan Park in Normanville. This lovely little park is Council-owned so all profits go back to the community. It is situated right on Normanville Beach and is only a 10-minute walk to the town centre.
Once you are set up, make your way to the Fleurieu Coast Visitor Centre in Yankalilla, which is also home to South Australia's best rural museum, the Yankalilla Historical Museum. With displays on the farming, mining and maritime histories of the area, heaps of local memorabilia and workbooks to keep the kids entertained, this is a great place to start your time on the Fleurieu Coast. After gaining some insight from the friendly locals, we left armed with a great idea of what we wanted to see and do while in the area. Our only problem was that we wished we had allowed more time!
Normanville has so much to offer that it wasn't hard to spend the rest of the day there. If you are a water person you have the option of snorkelling, fishing, scuba diving and swimming . If you prefer to stay on land, you’ll find beachside dining, horse-riding, and world class golf facilities at your fingertips.
Day 2
You have a full day ahead so be sure to stop by One Little Sister on Main Rd in Normanville, a café renowned for its fresh, organic, wholesome, and local food. Grab a coffee and brekkie before heading to stunning Carrickalinga Beach. If you’re lucky and are there at low tide, you'll get to swim and paddle in the sensational rock pools.
Forktree Brewery is a must for lunch—but you might want to make a reservation as they can book out a week or so in advance. Set on the hillside behind Carrickalinga, this renovated historic shearing shed was once the main shearing location for the Forktree Estate. You will love the delicious local produce, beers on tap, wine, local cider, gins, and more, all served up by friendly staff, and made even more special by awe-inspiring views right across the ocean and along the coastline. It's no wonder this is an extremely popular place.
If your experience is anything like ours, you will want to take the afternoon to let the delicious food and drink settle! We spent the rest of the day relaxing on the beach before making a light dinner and getting ready for The Backyard Universe Night Sky Tour. We met our tour guide, Fraser, at the Wirrina Cove Resort. Be sure to take some comfy chairs and a blanket as you will be laying back watching the stars, planets, moon, and satellites while listening to Fraser explain the different constellations and their interpretations from non-western cultures. The Southern Cross for me now will always be a stingray being chased by two sharks, or the wonky house built by the tradies who were distracted by beautiful women! Did you know that the Milky Way gets its name from the Greek myth about the goddess Hera? According to the myth she was duped into breastfeeding a baby who wasn’t hers, so she threw it across the sky splashing breastmilk everywhere! We were even able to take photos of the moon through the giant telescope. What a fun night!
Day 3
A brilliant way to start the day is with The Great Big Gorge Walk. A quick drive from Normanville, this walk is great for the whole family—even the fur babies can join you on this one! The easy 3.6km-return track runs beside the Yankalilla River, winding along the route of the historic coach road, and the path Colonel William Light walked during his first surveys. Soak in the peace of nature as you traverse rolling hills and are awed by beautiful big trees and the sounds of many different birds. Make sure you take time to stop and read the information boards that are dotted along the path, they are a fascinating way to learn something about the history of the area.
The next stop is the majestic Ingalalla Waterfalls, located in Second Valley Forest accessed via Hayflat Road, about 10km from Normanville. You can easily access the falls from the carpark by following a 500m tree-lined path dotted with picnic tables. If you are looking to get the heart rate up, the forest also offers extended walks.
Phew! After all that walking, it’s time to hit the water, and what better way to do it than taking The Big Duck Boat Tour. The tours depart from Wirrina Marina and give you a different perspective of the extraordinary Fleurieu coastline. From soaring cliffs, renowned for cliff jumping, to hidden caves and secluded white beaches, multi-layered aquamarine and turquoise waters, imposing headlands, bays, and windfarms, this is one thing you cannot miss! If you have your own boat, SUP,or kayak, you will be able to get up close and maybe even park up for a picnic lunch and a swim.
Day 4
With another full day of exploring and adventure ahead why not grab a coffee and some brekkie at the Valley of Yore? It's a family-owned coffee shop in Myponga offering specialty coffee and Fleurieu foods. They also have a selection of hyperlocal, local, South Australian, and Australian products for sale.
While in Myponga check out the sweeping panoramic views of Myponga Reservoir and the surrounding areas from the lookout on Reservoir Rd. The Reservoir is well known as a great place to do some kayaking, or, if you'd prefer to ride (bikes) or walk, you can take to the trails surrounding the water.
If kayaking is your thing, you will need to book ahead with Myponga Kayak Hire. When you arrive at the reservoir, they will have the kayaks and life jackets on the shoreline ready and waiting for you. Wear comfy clothes you don’t mind getting a little wet, especially if you’re planning to race each other across the water! After being pushed off into the water by one of the friendly staff members (in your kayak!) enjoy breathtaking views, hidden coves, and the serenity of the reservoir.
If, after your time on the water, you feel up to riding or walking the surrounding trails there are a couple of loops that don't take long at all if you're riding. We were on our eMTBs so we did them both in about half an hour. If you're walking though, you'll need to allow a couple of hours. The unsealed trails are signposted and take you through open plains, forested areas and native vegetation offering postcard-worthy views wherever you look. Ride or walk past the reservoir, up and down hills and if you feel like it, you can stop at one of the picnic tables for a breather and a snack.
After all that exercise, you'll have worked up quite an appetite. The place to go is the award-winning Smiling Samoyed Brewery which you will find just down the road. Named after the beautiful dogs that wander around, it's a perfect place to grab some lunch and enjoy a local craft beer or three. The brewery offers a rustic setting decorated with an eclectic assortment of memorabilia and has views of Myponga Reservoir.
The atmosphere here is fantastic; the local food is superb, the dogs are adorable, and the beer leaves you wanting more. We were seated right by the viewing window and were able to watch the brewer, Maddi, in action. With colouring t-shirts for the kids, a comfy couch to lounge around on, hot chocolate Samoyeds that must be seen to be believed, a beautiful outdoor setting, the most delicious local produce, and amazing staff, this is one place we highly recommend you don’t miss. Book ahead to avoid disappointment. We loved it so much we went back the following week with a group of our friends!
Day 5
This is the last day, so make the most of it! Deep Creek Conservation Park has so much to see and explore, you will need the whole day—and preferably two— to enjoy it properly. There are so many options to choose from while in the park, so plan well and choose what suits your time frame best. A parks pass is required and is easily purchased online.
Goondooloo Ridge Walk. This is sensational! Allow an hour or two to enjoy the walk, lookout, and picnic area where you can enjoy the spectacular views across Backstairs Passage to Kangaroo Island. It’s short, but lovely, with a brand-new car park and toilet, new paths, and information boards. As it’s a class 2 trail and suitable for wheels, we rode our electric mountain bikes, and it only took us 15 minutes each way.
Deep Creek Waterfall Hike. Allow a couple of hours for this walk plus time to enjoy the views on the way and the waterfall. The falls flow in winter and after rains, and there is a permanent waterhole. Make sure you pack your swimmers if it’s a warm day.
Tapanappa Lookout offers spectacular Southern Ocean views out to the Pages Islands and across to Cape Willoughby Lighthouse on Kangaroo Island. We hiked from the waterhole to the lookout before heading back to the car park.
Talisker Mine Ruins offer a fascinating trip back in time to when the Talisker Mine was the largest silver and lead mine in South Australia. Today you can walk the trail through the bush and mine ruins, exploring the nineteenth century silver mining and ore processing operation. Allow about an hour, or less if you just want to check out the main sections, which is what we did. We read the interpretive signs along the way, learning the history of the Cornish miners while exploring the re-vegetated area of Talisker Conservation Park. The walk begins from the roadside carpark on Talisker Road where you will also find an information shelter.
Blowhole Beach is unforgettable. It is only accessible by 4x4 or on foot and the path is quite steep in sections, so isn't for everyone. If walking, allow at least two and a half hours, as you will probably want to stop at the few places allocated for catching your breath while admiring the view! If you don’t make it down to the beach, the views from Cobbler Hill Picnic Ground are no less spectacular than those you will see if you make your way down to the beach. We drove down and although it was slow going over the steep, rocky road we felt it was well worth the effort. The beach is stunning.
We loved the area so much and felt there was so much more to see that we extended our stay by two weeks. Rapid Bay Campground, which offers unpowered sites and breathtaking views, was the best place to call home while we continued exploring one of the most inspiring and beautiful places we have visited—but that story is for another day!
